This is almost a garagiste operation, with a cellar so small that some of the work can only be done at certain times, when there is enough space. Planning permission has been granted for a considerable extension, which should be ready for the 2015 vintage. Don`t expect a Bordeaux style steel, glass and marble edifice though. The aim is to make the wine better, not Denis` ego. Though I`m not sure how he intends to achieve that laudable ambition as the only two times I`ve visited - to taste the 2012 and 2013 vintages, the wines were already extremely impressive. The raw material is a massive factor here. The youngest vines here are just over 80 years old, while the Corbeaux and Charmes are centenarians. There is no getting away from the fact that all the wines need considerable bottle age - a minimum of ten years for the village wine, 15 years for the 1er and grand cru. The Charmes is truly extraordinary. It is always the first to be picked and the ancient vines have bunches so small that the pickers have to be reminded that they must pick them! (CW 13/11/14)
