Vom stein zum wein
… or ‘from rocks to wine’. This is Toni Bodenstein’s motto: 'it’s all about the minerality'. Toni is the brains and the hard work behind Austria’s top Domaine Prager. He took over from his father-in-law, Franz Prager, and revolutionised the estate by focusing on diverse selections of clones of Riesling and Gruner Veltliner. Toni’s viticultural work at Prager has resulted in the estate becoming widely considered as among the best in Austria today.
Prager have some prime vine real estate in the Wachau; some of their vines in the prestigious Achleiten vineyard are over 100 years old. Each parcel is trained differently, depending on its location and soil, and Toni will use up to 110 different clones to make up some of his cuvees. But while work in the vineyard is extensive and complex, once the grapes enter the winery, it’s minimal intervention. Musts are vinified with natural yeasts in stainless steel tanks, without malolactic fermentation. The aim is to retain and enhance the character of the terroir and the vintage.
Aside from a few hailstorms during July and August, which damaged some fruit, 2021 saw a glorious season resulting in excellent wines. Summer came late but was mostly warm and dry, and the season reached well into the autumn. Toni’s attention to detail results in wines of astonishing concentration and intensity; his 2021s are already beautifully expressive, but have the structure and acidity to evolve in bottle. /DS
Offered subject to remaining unsold
