An old Champagne house with a nonconformist character, where biodynamics was being adopted as early as the 1950s. Leclerc Briant came under new ownership in 2012, and what had become an excellent (if relatively sleepy) house was suddenly electrified with new energy. Cellarmaster Frédéric Zeimett has a questioning, experimental attitude to everything he does – and that is leading to an exciting new set of Champagnes. He has tried out gold-lined fermentation vessels and aging under the sea, with fascinating results. But more importantly, he has an intense focus on quality. This has also seen the facilities here completely renovated, and the vineyards rationalized and expanded. An exciting house to watch. (NT 05/03/24)