The 2011 Rudesheimer Berg Kaisersteinfels Riesling Terrassen – which, as usual for Leitz’s wine from this site, stopped fermenting halbtrocken but tastes quite dry – displays a fine sense of levity (at 12% alcohol) as well as transparency to stony, chalky, alkaline and crystalline nuances. But “mineral” though you may want to call it on that account, this Riesling also delivers generously juicy lemon and white peach whose pips and pit add tingling, piquant impingements to a vibrantly shimmering, mouthwateringly saline and invigorating finish. There is an alluringly silken texture underlying it, and as at nearby Breuer and some other formidable addresses where I tasted 2011 dry Rieslings, I doubt it is a coincidence that the lowest alcohol bottlings among Leitz’s dry crus offer at once the greatest mineral, fruit, and texturally allure. This ought to merit attention through at least 2022, and hopefully some of the floral dimension I generally associate with Leitz’s Kaisersteinfels will emer ge. 93 points