very dark red. The nose is grilled-toasted, with a smooth, profound inlay of dark red fruit, black cherries a go-go. Hints of flowers circulate, and overall the nose implies future breadth and power of expression. There is a steely, muscular opening on the palate – this has cojones, while the juice is delivered in fine droplets at the same time, is savoury and clear. A sure fire winner here. It persists very well, en finesse, is extremely long. It is precise and fine, is a very good wine. Very ripe stems help it. The finish is a good mix of licorice, blackberry and perfume. “It has complexity, the crop very ripe – it’s a pity I didn’t have more,” Marc Sorrel. 6 stars

90% Le Méal and 10% Les Greffieux lieu-dits (hence the name). 60-year-old vines on average, 100% whole bunches. Dark in colour, deep and brooding blackberry with a touchof camphor and iquorice. Ripe fruits on the palate, and plenty of ripe tannins. Serious concentration and very long, this is a powerful wine that makes a real physical impression. This will be very impressive given time. 2021 to 2035. 95 points

Freshly baked fruitcake, layer upon layer of flavour, and supple tannins with charming lightness of touch. This is Hermitage’s sensitive side – perfumed and aromatic, yet without sacrificing wonderful fruit purity. 18 points