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    At Uncorked we do love a thoughtful and intelligent vigneron and Olivier Giroux is both. The seventh generation of his family to farm the seven and a half hectares high up in the superb terroir of Loche, he is busy transforming the domaine from co-op supplier into artisanal and stellar producers. The first job was to convert the lifeless, Monsanto-farmed soils back into a sustainable vineyard - it takes a long time to get rid of roundup! Now almost entirely organic, the vines and wines are healthier and cetainly extremely tasty.

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    Thanks to the Australian government, who vetoed his visa after the French started nuclear testing in the Pacific, the young but highly experienced Benjamin Leroux stayed in France in 1999 and ended up at Comte Armand, where he had done some work experience. This is a young man in a hurry and the changes to this 7.5 ha property came fast. The first was to move to a completely biodynamic culture and picking at phenolic ripeness. Less extraction than previous regimes and a post-fermentation maceration have softened what were, for many, tough wines with little grace.
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    This is almost a garagiste operation, with a cellar so small that some of the work can only be done at certain times, when there is enough space. Planning permission has been granted for a considerable extension, which should be ready for the 2015 vintage. Don`t expect a Bordeaux style steel, glass and marble edifice though. The aim is to make the wine better, not Denis` ego. Though I`m not sure how he intends to achieve that laudable ambition as the only two times I`ve visited - to taste the 2012 and 2013 vintages, the wines were already extremely impressive.
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    Arnaud Mortet, his sister Clemence and their mother Laurence make a close and formidable team, dexterously managing the multitude of small plots at this top family domaine. In Arnaud’s words. ‘Before being made in the cellar, the wine is made in the vineyard with supple and impeccable soils, which allow the vines to take root deeply. I thank my father and my grandfather who understood all this a long time ago’. They gave up on most chemicals long ago, and rely on indigenous yeast in the winery.

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    Morey-St-Denis is a fine bit of the Cote d`Or that flies under the radar of many people, overshadowed by Gevrey and Nuits, amongst others. Perhaps it was because in 1936, when they were handing down the Grand and Premier Cru classifications that the then owner refused GC status in case he had to pay more tax! Clos des Lambrays has found its place since then of course. And under Thierry Brouin has a director of immense prowess and great humility too.
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    Etienne certainly compares the 2008 vintage to 1993, citing the very similar vegetative cycles in both summers. And to reinforce that he gave us a 1993 Richebourg to taste at the end of our visit.Still needing time, obviously, this was still a majestic wine, with masses of fruit and development. The 2008s were the main event here and together with a mystery Russian and his PA, we tasted (the Russian drank) through the range. The overall impression was of suppleness and energy in the wines. They were all full of gas, but the wines here spend two winters in cask.
  • Frédéric Lafarge has established Domaine Lafarge-Vial in the charming, dramatic village of Fleurie. The wines are vinified back in Volnay, but Frédéric was keen to tell me the fruit here demands a different approach; he vinifies his Fleurie with 30% whole cluster, which brings a more expressive, aromatic style. /NT

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