'quintessential Margaux turned up to eleven'
Sometimes, great vintages just pass us by. I often find myself looking in the rear-view mirror, asking why on earth I didn't pick up such and such a wine when it was released. Just occasionally, though, we get the chance to do a handbrake turn and go back the way we came.
2010 is gradually passing from the ranks of recent Bordeaux vintages into the ranks of the legendary, responsible for serious, powerful, structured and elegant wines that will be talked about for decades to come. Every year, Chateau Palmer duels with its neighbour and rival Chateau Margaux for the title of best Margaux. If the 1855 classification were ever revised, Palmer would be the number one candidate for promotion to First Growth. It is famous (notorious) for its luxurious style, marrying a fleshy warmth with intense focus and precision.
Thomas Duroux was recruited to run Palmer in 2004, and since then has overseen a quiet revolution. For some years, he had noticed, 2010 Palmer had been closed and brooding, clearly magnificent but largely inaccessible. But then, around its tenth anniversary he opened a bottle; he says, 'wow! It was rocking, incredibly open and showing all its complexity. Of course, it will keep 50 more years, but this is a first plateau, a first stage in the wine's life.' And the late, great Professor of Oenology Emile Peynaud (widely regarded as the father of modern winemaking) liked to observe that the life of a Bordeaux classed growth begins at the age of 10; this is the inspiration behind what will be an ongoing series of 10 year-on ex-chateau releases from Palmer. Last year's first release saw stock of the great 2010 released to market in 3-bottle wooden cases, and we're delighted to offer a substantial parcel at a very sharp price. /NT
'The 2010 Palmer has an outgoing, intense and multifaceted bouquet with black cherries, boysenberry, crushed violets and hints of cassis - your quintessential Margaux turned up to eleven. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Headier than its Margaux peers, it builds in the mouth with a complex, marine-tinged finish with cracked black pepper lingering on the aftertaste. This is an outstanding Palmer but it needs more time in bottle. Tasted from an ex-château bottle at the BI Wines & Spirits 10-Year On tasting.' - 96 points, Neal Martin, vinous.com, Apr 2020
