Sangiovese in the Maremma
The face of Sangiovese changes across Tuscany. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is richer and less mineral than Chianti; Brunello is an even bolder style. Morellino is something else. This is the most gentle, delicate expression of Sangiovese, fragrant and early maturing. Coming from the Maremma, the Tuscan seaboard, it is also a maritime-inflected style. Most of the Maremma was a terrible place to make wine until the swamps were drained in the 1930s, but the slopes around the hilltown of Scansano were an exception; Morellino di Scansano had always enjoyed a high reputation. At Roccapesta, Alberto Tanzini likes to say Morellino is a 'gentle but exquisite' expression of Sangiovese.
Alberto had a high-flying career in finance, but dreamed of returning to his childhood home to make wine. In 2003 he took the plunge, and Roccapesta was born. It has been a massive project. He carefully surveyed the complex geologies across the estate, and laid out new vineyards according to the results; there are now 30 different Sangiovese clones planted there. It's not just Sangiovese; the Roccapesta Morellino blends (mostly) Sangiovese with a dollop of Ciliegiolo, an old indigenous grape. They also cultivate the ancient and rare Pugnitello.
2016 saw a lovely vintage in the region, slow-building, with exactly the sort of summer variation between hot days and cold nights that makes for great wine years. 2016 Morellino Rocccapesta captures the beautiful energy of the vintage; it is supple and tense, with cherry and red flower notes followed by herb and cocoa on the finish. The riserva sees an extra year in the cellar, which brings more depth and polish to the style. And there is also a very niche single varietal Pugnitello, which has a dark fruit, herb and musk character. /NT
Offered subject to remaining unsold; available imminently
