Joseph Colin, Marc Colin, Philippe Colin, Lamy, Bernard Moreau, Niellon, Pillot
The electricity and energy on show in the 2018 wines from Marc Colin bowled me over - another domaine that demonstrated that white wines can still be packed with purity and energy and freshness even in a ripe vintage. Damien has managed these wines beautifully and they are as good in 2018 as I have ever tasted them. St-Aubin is home to more than one branch of the Colin family; Joseph Colin also learned his craft at the family domaine, but broke away in 2016 to do things his way. From his six-hectare share of the family vines between St-Aubin and Chassagne he is making a range of precise, focussed white Burgundies that are gathering plaudits on all sides. Also in St-Aubin, Olivier Lamy is a questing, experimental winemaker who believes in high density plantings and low yields.
We always argue about which is our best white wine tasting of the en primeur trip, but the name Bernard Moreau comes up time and again. Based in Chassagne, the Moreau brothers now have many years of experience together and knew exactly how to rise to the challenge of the 2018 vintage. Benoit manages the vineyards; Alex handles the cellar work. Their 2018s are bright, tense and mineral, but their tightly woven richness will unfold over time.
Chassagne is home to a number of other fine winemakers. Philippe Colin (ex Colin-Deleger, cousin to the other Colins) crafted ambitious, brilliant 2018s; the epitome of the vintage with energy and precision. At Niellon, Michel Cotoux's hallmark is a touch of slightly toastier oak than is fashionable these days. By contrast, Thierry Pillot hates the flavour of new oak and keeps its use to the bare minimum. His wines bristle with tension and energy, and are terroir-driven, mineral and precise. Thierry likes to pick early, but not too early (26th August for the 18s) which means the wines have natural concentration but remain bright and fresh. /NT
View all 2018 Burgundy releases
Offered subject to remaining unsold; for shipment Winter 2020/21
