A Spanish classic, and a great vintage
The name is a bit of a mouthful - the Spanish initials CVNE stand for 'Vinicultural Company of the North of Spain'. But in Spain it is affectionately known as 'Cooney', and it has been gracing Spanish (and international) dinner tables for generations. At the very top of the range is the Gran Reserva Imperial. It cellars immensely well - I've had a few mature Riojas in my time, but I vividly remember an Imperial 1968 as one of the absolute best
CVNE was founded in 1879 at the peak of the Rioja boom; the joint founders were two brothers from Bilbao, whose descendants still manage the company today. It began as a purely negociant company, buying and selling grapes and finished wine, but soon moved on to planting vineyards of its own. The arrival of Imperial in 1920 cemented CVNE's position as one of the very top Rioja bodegas; it took its name from the Imperial pint format in which it was originally sold to the English market. Imperial has always enjoyed privileged treatment, with separate winemaking and cellaring facilities at the bodega. After fermentation, it reposes in barrel for some years in the Eiffel cellar, purpose-designed by Gustave, he of the Tower; Rioja has always had a bit of a thing for celebrity architects. The winemaking model is classic Gran Reserva; the very best fruit of a vintage given long aging in French and American oak barrels. It is only made when vintage conditions are good enough.
Cue 2011. That vintage saw hot, dry weather that led to wines in an intense, ripe, concentrated style. Following on from the equally good 2010, the Rioja governing board gave the vintage the top possible classification of 'excellent' - there wasn't to be another so highly rated vintage till 2019, and it will of course be some time before 2019 gran reservas appear. 2011 Imperial is a classically-styled, traditionally-minded Rioja. It is packed with notes of plum, strawberry, nutmeg and tobacco; the sweet mid-palate leads through to a lingering and elegant finish. It may seem to be mellowing already, but do not be deceived; it has a long cellar life ahead. At the back of the cellar, we've also discovered some magnums of 2007 Imperial; another good vintage, less elevated perhaps than 2011, but drinking beautifully now. /NT
Offered subject to confirmation; available imminently
