Donnhoff: the thrilling 2023s

Mastery on the Nahe valley

Their 2023s are thrilling, across the range. The bone-dry styles have a tense purity. This reaches its peak in the GGs (Grosses Gewachs, great growths) which show intense single-site complexity (and which will demand a bit of age to express at their best). In the off-dry styles, the Kabinetts have a breathless lightness of touch. The Spatleses trip you up with their contrasting combination of ripe aromas, then delicate body. The Ausleses are concentrated and intense but have a powerful acid line, and never seem weighty. In other words, Donnhoff have — once again — turned in a wonderful set of wines.

You'd expect no less from this family, of course. The Donnhoffs are in the front-rank of German winemaking, and a concern for quality reigns supreme here. They've been making wine since the 1750s. Cornelius is the latest member of his family to run the estate; he was named German Winemaker of the Year almost as soon as he had started.

After the very dry 2022 vintage, 2023 saw summer rains. That very much favoured the steep, stony sites the Donnhoffs work, among the best in the Nahe Valley, where excess water disappears almost immediately. The Donnhoffs' vineyard regime is pretty intense, and when rain set in, they were out in the vineyard selecting out any grapes that started to show the slightest sign of mildew or rot. So by the time the dry, sunny harvest rolled around, there was nothing but perfect quality fruit in the vineyard. /NT

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