Walter Massa’s 2019 Timorasso, the finest we’ve tried

8 Jun 2022

Resurrection man

We've been fans and followers of Walter Massa's pear-and-almond scented Timorasso for quite a few vintages now. And while we weren't necessarily planning on going long on the 2019, when we tasted it, we changed our minds; it's the finest we've tried. There's a lovely, defined tension to this wine: the energetic acidity tugs at the grippy, phenolic mouthfeel.

Walter has always been a man on a mission. At their farm in the hills between Piedmont and Liguria, his family kept alive the last few hectares of the Timorasso grape variety. When Walter took over in the late 1970s, he was bowled over by the intensity of the white wine he made from these grapes. Against the temper of that moment, he decided to focus on the indigenous.

Once upon a time, Timorasso was praised as a noble variety, and widely planted across Piedmont. It used to form the backbone of Gavi. But it has never been an easy grape to manage, and after the phylloxera blight it was almost entirely supplanted by the more reliable (if less exciting) Cortese. It has taken the outside world a while to catch on, but Walter's efforts have put Timorasso back on the scene - many local producers now make one. /NT

Offered subject to remaining unsold; available now

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