An exceptional range
'Olivier Humbrecht's 2018s are gorgeous.' - Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, Lockdown Special, October 2020
It's hardly surprising that Antonio Galloni flagged up the 2018 Zind-Humbrechts in his October lockdown special. This is a stunning set of wines, full and ripe and intense, but equally characterised by an especially racy acidity that lifts them high and far. A beguiling combination, and not what I expected from such a hot year as 2018. When I put that to Olivier, he struggled to repress a smug smile. But, he explained, that's what you get as a reward for over 20 years of strict biodynamic viticulture - responsive, adaptable vines that can flourish in conditions other vines struggle to keep up with.
I visited Alsace in 2018, and saw first-hand the sometimes stark differences between the vines in Olivier's vineyards and those in certain of his neighbours. It was a vintage that gave all Alsace vignerons a lot to work with; after a warm, wet spring kicked the season off, summer turned hot and dry, and hydric stress became a real issue. Poorly farmed vines shut down altogether. But Olivier's vines just reacted by ripening more slowly; an ideal response, giving the grapes time to develop full flavour ripeness while keeping acidities high.
Terroir differences are also especially clearly delineated. The wines of cool, high Clos Windsbuhl (which enjoys a breathtaking view into Germany and the Black Forest) are the most marked by varietal purity. The cold, compact soils of the Clos Hauserer make the most austere Riesling of all this year, tight and pure and destined for a long cellar life; Heimbourg is pithy lime, lemon and grapefruit. Volcanic Clos St-Urbain makes complex, saline, mineral and even smoky wines that are unique in Alsace. Goldert proves once again it is one of the world's greatest Muscat sites. The Gewurztraminers are higher up the indice (sweetness) scale; Hengst is packed with exotic spice, Clos Windsbuhl is lychee and white pepper, and the interplay of vineyard and varietal character in the Clos St-Urbain is exquisite. /NT
Offered subject to confirmation; for shipment winter 2020
