In 2021, Chateau Cheval Blanc, along with Chateau Ausone, withdrew from the St-Emilion classification. These chateaux alleged doubts about the criteria for (re)classification, claiming a drift away from the pre-eminence on terroir towards a focus on marketing considerations. Some critics implied they were miffed by the prospect of having to share their exalted ‘Premier Grand Cru Classe A’ with more chateau (it had been their exclusive preserve prior to the 2012 promotion of Pavie and Angelus). Either way, there was fairly widespread dismay at these two hallowed chateaux stepping away from the classification.

While many Bordeaux chateaux tell stories of revival and recovery, Cheval Blanc has always been one of the greatest names in St-Emilion in Bordeaux. After the French Revolution, the then-owners took the opportunity to acquire some top plots from neighboring Figeac. In the 1860s, they built drainage channels, which at the time seemed radical and far-sighted (if not quixotic).

Cheval Blanc borders Pomerol and Petrus, and a third of its vines are on the famous streak of Petrus blue clay. What makes it distinct (in fact, unique) amongst its peers and neighbours is the unusually high proportion of Cabernet Franc in the vineyards – 60 per cent, to 40 per cent Merlot. Planting follows Pomerol rules, with Merlot often on gravel and Pomerol on (well-drained) clay. The cellar is a wonder to behold. Everything here from terroir to vineyard management to winemaking is pored over in no-expense-spared, super-geeky detail. (NT 14/08/23)