Roederer`s stewardship of de Pez since they took it over in 1995 is a study in how to improve a property. They have had a long look at the mix of vine varieties and the soils and have tried to match them more precisely, planting more Merlot where appropriate. They have also changed the trellising arrangements for the vines to promote better and more even ripening, while in the cellar, retention of the wooden fermenting vats, now temperature controlled, and more attention to hygiene mean the wines are suppler, fruitier and somewhat more attractive when young. But they weren`t taking over a wreck by any means as de Pez has had a good reputation for years. What Roederer have done is to fine tune and make sure the terroir is operating to full potential. (CW 03/06/10)