In my tiny mind Chateau Latour always seems the most stolid of the first growths, the most reliable, the one you would want on your side. Yet in recent times their radical decision to abandon the en primeur system went against current thinking and they remain alone in this. Although the estate was founded in the 15th century, the wine entreprise started around 1670. Within 50 years, Latour was building a reputation for quality and there was already over 35 hectares of vines.

Of course during this time there were various land sales and acquisitions and for many years the estate was run alongside Lafite, so modern Latour is a different shape from what it was in the past. In the 20th century ownership seemed quite unstable with over 50% split between a couple of owners from the UK. That didn`t stop investment, as some of the first temperature controlled stainless steel tanks in the region were in place in 1964. Francois Pinault bought the estate in 1993. He is one of the world`s richest men and has put huge sums into the property, both in vineyard and completely new cellar. The grand vin comes from a vineyard called L`Enclos, which is real terroir and sits on an enormous gravel outcrop, rising a whole 15 metres above sea level. L`Enclos is farmed biodynamically and most of the rest organically. Chateau Latour is a fabulous property making stunning wines - arguably the best second wine in Bordeaux apart from anything else. Certainly it`s fabulously priced too, but ageworthy and classy Cabernet Sauvignon based nectar. (CW 26/03/15)