Always a top performer in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Marcoux make a very purely-styled tradition cuvee from old vine stock. They were one of the first domaines in Chateauneuf to take up biodynamic viticulture. Oak use is minimal, with the intention being to supply structure to the wine, while allowing a purer fruit character to show through. But what has really made this domaine famous is the rarer Vieilles Vignes cuvee. For many tasters this is the most profound Chateauneuf of all. It marries fruit from two plots of old vines. lieux-dits Charbonnieres (planted in 1900) and Les Esqueirons. It is practically pure Grenache except for a few heads of Mourvedre, and is a showcase cuvee speciale for depth, energy and longevity. ‘We only do it if the tradition is fantastic by itself,’ says Sophie Armenier, who now manages the domaine with her son Vincent. The Armeniers are true vieilles vignes themselves, with their family mentioned in village documents dating back to 1344. (NT 20/09/22)