Méo-Camuzet is an unrecognisable Domaine from what it was thirty years ago and Jean-Nicolas is evolving in harmony. In the early eighties the Méo family were more or less running the estate as absentee landlords. Jean-Nicolas said that at that time Vosne was a holiday home. They had some exceptional vineyards and some more than decent tenants though, especially one Henri Jayer. Changes to French laws meant essentially that the family had to start farming their own land or would have to sell it - not an appealing prospect. This meant an enforced change of career for Jean-Nicolas, who had no training as a winemaker, though that Henri Jayer wasn`t a bad mentor to have...

Since the late eighties the Domaine has established itself as a highly desirable source for Pinot Noir and one Chardonnay. The wines all reflect their origins very clearly but also share a seductive, if not sexy style. We have seen them referred to as pornographic Pinot Noir! They are more subtle than that and winegrowing practices continue to develop here, as does Jean-Nicolas. (CW 26/02/14)