Piercing, pristine expressions of Albarino, and some beautiful bottles that prove how well Albarino can age, if given the chance. In the thirty or so years that they have been on the scene, Rias Baixas producer Pazo Senorans have leapt towards the top of the Spanish pack, developing a reputation as one of the country’s finest producers.

They have worked closely with the same set of growers for years. The winery chooses when they want the growers to harvest; the growers know that only perfect condition fruit will be accepted. The vineyards that Pazo source from are all close to the sea. The humid, briny air means that the growers use pergolas hewn from concrete to train the vines. Soils here are loose, acidic and sandy; the xabre subsoil is a form of decomposed granite which allows good drainage, ideal for viticulture in an area that can get wet. The wines are fermented in stainless steel to keep the aromatics at their purest. (NT 04/09/23)