What`s Olivier`s secret? For one thing, it is a portfolio of some of the best vineyards in Alsace, largely built up by his father Leonard, who had the foresight to buy the great old sites in an era when everyone wanted the flat, easy-to-farm ones. Then there is the fanatical vineyard work; when I visited a few years ago during pruning season, I saw first-hand the levels of consideration demanded of the pruners.