Shale soils, dry farmed. Spontaneous ferment. 11 months in neutral oak. Smart, smoky/mineral fragrance. Rich citrus fruit with just a touch of pineapple – much richer and riper on the palate than I expected from the nose. Deep and rich and almost chewy in its lovely deep texture. And finishes fresh. Harmonious and complete. 17 points

The 2015 Chardonnay comes entirely from Greyton fruit, whole-bunch-pressed and matured for 11 months in neutral older barrels. It has a very attractive, Meursault-like bouquet of walnut, smoke and light citrus fruit mixed with hints of passion fruit. The palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity, fine mineralité and touches of brioche mixed with citrus fruit. Quite phenolic in style but maintains outstanding balance and superb tension on the finish. Very impressive, and I can see this aging well over the next decade. 94 points

Now one of two Chardonnays in the Lismore range, this hasn’t suffered with the introduction of a Reserve bottling. Made without new oak, it has the minerality and zip that are features of this cool site, complemented by citrus, baking spices and yeasty complexity. Drink 2017-21. 93 points