The 2020 L`If is precocious on the nose, with macerated black cherries, crushed violet, and blueberry emerging with time, all very well-defined and focused. The oak is nicely integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, a little fleshier than its stablemate L`Hetre. A pinch of white pepper towards the second half and an almost sedate, harmonious pastille-like finish. This should be afforded 4-5 years in bottle. 92 points

The 2020 L’If is dense, powerful and explosive to the core. A rush of black cherry fruit, chocolate, graphite, cloves and lavender saturates the palate. This powerful, dense Saint-Émilion is all muscle and brawn today. There is no shortage of intensity, but all of that energy is directed inwards at this stage. Huge tannins and bright acids need time to soften, but this is impressive. Readers should expect a big, big wine. 97 points