(cask) firm yellow robe; the bouquet leads on a classic pear aroma, Poire William, with a white tobacco, tangy tone. The palate gives a cool fruit from the off, a tinkle of a mountain stream, with dainty precision in the peach, white plum, beeswax flavour, a spearmint side right in the mix as well. This has the merit of being untramelled, properly direct and clear, with a red wine-like build in depth, tannin, towards the oaked finish. It’s structured Condrieu, up for a belle table later on, around 2027-28. 2034-36. 4.5 stars