The 2021 Muscat Goldert Grand Cru comes from a mix of limestone and clay with deep topsoil, a site famed for Muscat. A gentle orange zest and orange blossom fragrance is clouded with some reductive smoke. The palate is smooth, rich and almost viscous. Still, the wine is dry, with a lovely lemon notion of acidity, softened by malolactic fermentation, which also took some of the varietal headiness. This results in a gently aromatic, fine, light bone-dry wine that will evolve beautifully. (Bone-dry) 94 points