Cognac is an area north of the wine producing areas of Bordeaux` right bank. The production is mostly from Colombard and Ugni Blanc, vinified and twice distilled in pot stills before aging. There are various categories with minimum age limits. VSOP (very special old Pale) must be at least four years in cask, while XO must be at least six, though this will change in 2016 to ten years. Production is dominated by a few large companies, though much growing and distilling is done by farmers. The terroir is considered very significant in Cognac, with Grande and Petite Champagne the chalkiest and best. Cognac tends to the smooth and rich with age, a la Frapin, though it can be more delicate as in Delamain. Vintages are rare. (CW 23/01/12)