Rapet, Joseph Colin, Marc Colin, Philippe Colin, V & S Morey, Thomas Morey, Moreau
Tucked away in the folding valleys behind the hill of Corton, the village of Pernand-Vergelesses is surrounded by vineyards on every side. Each house in the village seems to belong to one winery or another. One of our great recent discoveries was here; we were entirely seduced by the elegant, unforced wines we tasted at Rapet. The whites are bright, saline and brimming with verve, the reds have an expressive purity with a lovely, lifted texture.
Pommard (where the soil is rich in clay and iron) makes a very different style of wine from its neighbour Volnay (where the thin soils lie on limestone). Comte Armand's Clos des Epeneaux is probably the finest expression there is of Pommard's weightier, forceful wines; look no further than Charles Ballot-Millot's lovely Volnay Santenots for a fine, crunchy, floral Volnay.
The steep, rocky slopes of St-Aubin are home to more than one Colin; both Joseph Colin and his brother Damien (who manages Domaine Marc Colin) work the fine but difficult sites above the village. Cuvee Luce (Marc Colin) and Compendium (Joseph Colin) are both steely and intense blends that beautifully capture village character. Philippe Colin makes similarly typical, elegant wines down the road in Chassagne-Montrachet. Also in Chassagne, husband and wife team Vincent and Sophie Morey have excellent holdings in some very good vineyards. They favour a style of wine that is a little richer, and manage to marry that with a pleasing precision. Vincent's brother Thomas is a winemaker in his own right, working in a leaner, high-energy style. And one of our favourite Chassagne winemakers is Alex at Bernard Moreau; his 2021s are stylish and refined. /NT
Read our full 2021 Burgundy vintage report here.
Offered subject to remaining unsold; for shipment Spring 2024
