Jacqueson, Raquillet, Charton, Lumpp
While the Côte d'Or is one single limestone escarpment, Burgundy's southern Côte Chalonnaise is a patchwork of hills and valleys. But soil types here are very similar to the Cote d'Or (limestone and clay, with supporting acts) and from the right vineyard, the wines can be magical. Rully is known for fresh whites and light, charming reds. Based in Rully, Jacqueson are one of the top Chalonnaise producers. Their fruit comes from wonderfully-sited vineyards which they only work by hand; cellar work follows a low-intervention regime, with the judicious use of new oak. Their 2022s are as successful as any vintage we have tasted here; the whites are tense and well-formed, the reds have balance, freshness and impressive energy.
A new generation of producers are defying the reputation Mercurey once had for rustic wines. Vincent Charton has strong opinions about his 2022s. 'If I could make wines like this every year, I'd say where do I sign please?' He used a generous proportion of whole bunch this vintage as he felt the stems were ripe, and these have added an extra dimension to his wines. François Raquillet has some superbly sited old vines (his family have been involved in winemaking in Mercurey since the 1600s, so it would be surprising if he hadn't picked up a few). Since he took over, he has transformed the wines made here, lowering yields and improving vineyard and cellar work.
François Lumpp has vineyards on the mid-to-upper-slope 'sweet spots' on the rolling hills around Givry. The historically prestigious vineyards of Givry tend to make more powerful, tannic reds; François has always argued that success here depends on managing tannins while delivering fruit. His daughter Anne-Cecile and her partner Nicolas Blesson are showing great dedication as they take Lumpp into the next generation. The 2022 reds here are vibrant and structured and full of life; the whites are a lovely marriage of freshness and depth. /NT
Read our full 2022 Burgundy vintage report here.
Offered subject to remaining unsold; for shipment Spring 2025
