A family winery is a warm place to work, says Emanuela Bolla; then she admits with a laugh that it can sometimes be a challenge to keep all her relatives on board with every decision. Serio e Battista Borgogno has been on the scene since the nineteenth century, occupying a commanding position on the ridge above the Cannubi vineyard. Emanuela and her cousin Federica are quick to point out that being traditionalist does not mean a one-vintage-fits-all approach; `every year we like to question everything like it`s the first time`. Among their many recent innovations, they are keen to show off the almond tree saplings they are planting in their vineyards; these encourage biodiversity, and in an era of rising temperatures, offer grapes a little shade. (NT 17/07/23)