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    A family winery is a warm place to work, says Emanuela Bolla; then she admits with a laugh that it can sometimes be a challenge to keep all her relatives on board with every decision. Serio e Battista Borgogno has been on the scene since the nineteenth century, occupying a commanding position on the ridge above the Cannubi vineyard. Emanuela and her cousin Federica are quick to point out that being traditionalist does not mean a one-vintage-fits-all approach; `every year we like to question everything like it`s the first time`.

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    There are few - if any - more romantic stories in wine than that of Giuseppe Sesti. Having studied fresco painting in Venice, on graduation Giuseppe found that there was little demand for his skills. Instead, he dedicated himself to the study of astronomy, going on to write five books on the subject. By 1975, long before biodynamism had entered the vinous vocabulary, he`d published tables of the small and larger moon cycles for agricultural use in order to reduce the use of chemicals on the land.

    Along the way, he met a posh Shropshire girl called Sarah.

  • Massimo Lentsch and his family are one of the members of the nearly 600 year old `I Vigneri` guild. In accordance with their traditions vines are densely planted, but individually trained up untreated chestnut poles, not along wires, in a quincunx pattern. Viticulture is very much according to biodynamic principles, but without certification. Tenuta di Castellaro is all about the winemaking heritage of Lipari; recovered sites, and a mix of old vines and new plantings. They make wine from indigenous varieties naturally suited to the volcanic soils.
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    Located on a part of the Tuscan coast that alternates between marshland and stony areas, Tenuta San Guido was bought by the Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta in the 1930s as, thanks to drainage works and a bit of clearance, the zone was becoming less susceptible to malaria. Large parts of the estate were either suitable only for hunting or reserved for race horse breeding, but during the 1940s work began to plant out some of the drier, stonier areas with vines.

  • Campania is the region of Italy around Naples, with a dramatic coastline and wild, mountainous interior. It also has a unique range of indigenous grape varieties that date back to classical times. Once upon a time, this was one of the most prestigious wine regions anywhere; local Aglianico and Greco di Tufo grapes were responsible for Falernian, the most prized (and costly) wine style of the Roman Empire. In the twentieth century, the region became synonymous with Mastroberardino, the producer who tirelessly championed local varieties and kick-started southern Italy`s wine revolution.

  • Three friends – Tre – and a vineyard in Berri. hence they are the “Trediberri” Berri is a small hamlet in the westernmost part of La Morra, located in the Langhe hills of Piemonte, close to the Tanaro river. It lies at the extreme western edge of the Barolo region. Here, in 2007, Nicola, his father Federico and their friend Vladimiro, acquired 5 hectares of vineyards. At Trediberri there are no fixed protocols in the winery, they vinify in cement, wood, or steel depending on what suits the vintage. They change the length of barrel age, again, depending on the vintage.
  • Vittorio Graziano hadn`t touched a drop of alcohol before falling for the charms of a local girl when he was 18, who also introduced him to the joy of wine. This led to a four day hangover but also imbued in him a love of things vinous. He worked a miserable existence as a clerk, pen-pushing and living entirely indoors. When he was reminded how many years he had to wait for pension and release he immediately rebelled and went to become a winegrower. The family plot was a not very massive half hectare of old vines so he set about increasing the area under his control.
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    When Walter Massa took over his family farm at the end of the 1970s, he was bowled over by the intensity of the wine he made from his Timorasso grapes. Five generations of the Massa family kept the last few hectares of the Timorasso grape variety alive in the steep hills just to the east of the town of Tortona in Piedmont, Italy. Once upon a time, Timorasso was praised as a noble variety and widely planted across Piedmont. It used to form the backbone of Gavi.

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