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    When Jacques Seysses bought the domaine that was to become the eponymous `du jac` in the sixties and then buying some top plots who would have thought that Dujac would become such an influential player in the region.

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    Domaine Felettig has an origin story you hear time and again across Burgundy (and more broadly, across much of France and viticultural Europe). Grape cultivators gradually become landowners in their own right, and sent their grapes to the village co-op until someone (in this case, Henri Felettig) took the dramatic decision to begin estate bottling. Over time, family holdings increased. In 1993, the next generation took over, with Gilbert handling the winemaking and his sister Christine administering the domaine.

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    What can one say about Francois that won`t be misinterpreted? Capricious, fey, self-deprecating, tiny, dedicated, giggly as hell, slightly anxious about his wines, says pfff more often than any other Frenchman I`ve ever met, crafter of brilliant Chambolle. I`m not sure he ever wanted to be a winemaker, but he`s a bloody good one. (CW 14/03/14)
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    Anytime that a book or report on Burgundy arrives, I can imagine the conversation over the Lumpp breakfast table. `Nice review for your wines, dear.` `Did they say my wines are solid, workmanlike and ambitious Givrys, dear?` `Of course, dear, well done.` Frustrating though that must be, it is at least part of the truth. There is also perfume and depth and great pleasure to be had from these excellent value wines. In 2009 the Domaine was our first visit and got us off to a flying start. Silky tannins and vivid acidity underpinned the fresh and complex fruit.
  • Francois Raquillet is a typical modern Burgundian. He retains many strong links to the past but is constantly searching to improve his wines, either through better vineyard work or in the cellar. Blessed with a lot of old vines, he strives to keep yields fairly low, makes full use of a sorting table - which means throwing away a lot of fruit - and in the end the results are fruit-driven, pure wines that see a maximum of 30% new oak and are unobscured by it. Overall the style is robust but perfumed with well done tannins in the reds and dense, herby, citrussy whites.
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    Ghislaine Barthod makes an unlikely superhero. As charming as her wines, she exhibits little of the inner steel she had to have to take over her estate on inheritance, and improve it and the wines. And improve they have. Barthod wines continue to climb the league table, not only in Chambolle, but in Burgundy as a whole. Yet the tiny barrel cellar and less than fifteen acres of land cannot hope to supply the demand for the ten different wines produced, including a singular white. And incidentally Pinot Noir`s amazing tendency to mutate means that some white fruit is in Fuees and Beaux Bruns.
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    The defining estate in Nuits-St-Georges. One hundred years after Henri Gouges returned from the First World War and became a pioneer of domaine bottling and a champion of the region, Gouges are going strong. The stewardship of Henri’s great-grandsons Greg and Antoine is winning round a new generation of fans, and these two cousins have had a cracking fifteen years in charge.

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