Pages

  • #

    Marcel Moreau originally developed this domaine in the 1960s. His son Bernard Moreau took over in 1982, pioneering estate bottling and the separation of the various premier crus into individual cuvees. However, it was when Bernard’s sons Alex and Benoit arrived in the early 2000s that Domaine Bernard Moreau really began to acquire a serious following. Alex handled the winery, Benoit managed the vineyards, and Bernard Moreau became known for some stunning wines in a very contemporary white Burgundian idiom. bright, tense, mineral, and full of energy.

  • #
    We saw Antoine Jobard this year for a change. He is gradually taking over more responsibility for the wines. The wines had just been racked and put onto their fine lees for the second winter in cask. The `07 harvest was finished in early September and the grapes came in with a high malic content, which will stand them in good stead from a structural point of view, and the natural alcohol was around 13%. The ripeness of the fruit combined with the high acid levels means that the wines are balanced and have good richness.
  • #

    Cyprien Arlaud has the natural confidence of a man at the top of his game. He has been making the wines at Domaine Arlaud since 2001 and, as he sees it, he is now reaping the benefits of his early switch to organics, followed swiftly by biodynamics. He also puts in prodigious amounts of work in the vineyard, and the domaine employs considerably more vineyard workers than any of the near neighbours.

  • #

    Tasting over the last few years I have never been in any doubt that Ballot-Millot is one of the finest white wine domaines in the Cote de Beaune. From his cellars in Meursault, Charles Ballot fashions a set of wines that invariably brim with verve, tension and energy. He is the 15th generation of his family to front the domaine, so perhaps it shouldn’t be too surprising that he knows what he is doing. Nor he is afraid to innovate; his wines are very much in the modern mode, lean and elegant, with a deliberate touch of reduction.

  • Stéphane Tissot – at the domaine named after his parents, André et Mireille Tissot – has become the world’s most widely-known ambassador for the wines of Jura. This small, mountainous region looks across the Saône Valley to Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, but has its own very distinctive vinous heritage and traditions.

  • #
    From a village that is often not taken as seriously as it should be comes Christophe Coillot, who takes his wine very seriously indeed. And yet his wines are fun, in a way you don`t often find. They`re fun because of the classic, silky textures, the balance and the well judged structures, but above all else because of the fruit. 90% of the domaine is organic, and no herbicides or pesticides are used, with instead lots of hard work done by hand.
  • #

    Amelie Berthaut is one of the leading lights among a new generation of growers, and since she took over in 2012, she has turned a relatively obscure family domaine into a hot property. She is also credited with putting her home village of Fixin back on the map; while it was widely overlooked until recently, in the 19th century Fixin was considered to have parts the equal of Gevrey-Chambertin. Amelie inherited an impressive array of vineyards from her parents, and has since managed to expand her reach further.

  • #

    Best known as the brains behind Hudelot-Noellat, Charles van Canneyt is so much more than a pretty face. As well as producing extremely fine and well balanced wines from his own family vineyards, he has begun a micro-negoce business in order fo fill some of the gaps in the family range and also to be able to satisfy demand for his wines. He even has some whites. Because of the way Burgundy is organised (I use the term loosely), it is quite possible to get hold of quite grand fruit, but it will cost you, so these aren`t necessarily the cheapest wines, but they are stunning.

  • #

    Berliquet can seem like a relative newcomer. In fact it is an historic estate, but one whose grapes for generations were sent to the local co-op. In-house bottling did not begin till 1978, and so, despite the excellent location, it wasn’t even classified till 1986. Nicolas Audebert freely admits that when the Wertheimer brothers acquired Berliquet in 2017, the intention had been to roll the vineyards into their neighbouring Chateau Canon.

  • Fabien Moreau says his goal is to make `the most classical Chablis possible` - and the way to achieve that is `through a balance between ripeness and tension`. Domaine Christian Moreau was only officially constituted in 2002, but in reality is the culmination of six generations of work and history. Quality is always outstanding here, and the wines offer the epitome of the `oyster shell` character habitually attributed to Chablis; they are mineral and intense, tangy, structured, sometimes austere but always elegant.

  • #

    At Uncorked we do love a thoughtful and intelligent vigneron and Olivier Giroux is both. The seventh generation of his family to farm the seven and a half hectares high up in the superb terroir of Loche, he is busy transforming the domaine from co-op supplier into artisanal and stellar producers. The first job was to convert the lifeless, Monsanto-farmed soils back into a sustainable vineyard - it takes a long time to get rid of roundup! Now almost entirely organic, the vines and wines are healthier and cetainly extremely tasty.

  • #
    Thanks to the Australian government, who vetoed his visa after the French started nuclear testing in the Pacific, the young but highly experienced Benjamin Leroux stayed in France in 1999 and ended up at Comte Armand, where he had done some work experience. This is a young man in a hurry and the changes to this 7.5 ha property came fast. The first was to move to a completely biodynamic culture and picking at phenolic ripeness. Less extraction than previous regimes and a post-fermentation maceration have softened what were, for many, tough wines with little grace.
  • #
    This is almost a garagiste operation, with a cellar so small that some of the work can only be done at certain times, when there is enough space. Planning permission has been granted for a considerable extension, which should be ready for the 2015 vintage. Don`t expect a Bordeaux style steel, glass and marble edifice though. The aim is to make the wine better, not Denis` ego. Though I`m not sure how he intends to achieve that laudable ambition as the only two times I`ve visited - to taste the 2012 and 2013 vintages, the wines were already extremely impressive.
  • #

    Arnaud Mortet, his sister Clemence and their mother Laurence make a close and formidable team, dexterously managing the multitude of small plots at this top family domaine. In Arnaud’s words. ‘Before being made in the cellar, the wine is made in the vineyard with supple and impeccable soils, which allow the vines to take root deeply. I thank my father and my grandfather who understood all this a long time ago’. They gave up on most chemicals long ago, and rely on indigenous yeast in the winery.

  • #
    Morey-St-Denis is a fine bit of the Cote d`Or that flies under the radar of many people, overshadowed by Gevrey and Nuits, amongst others. Perhaps it was because in 1936, when they were handing down the Grand and Premier Cru classifications that the then owner refused GC status in case he had to pay more tax! Clos des Lambrays has found its place since then of course. And under Thierry Brouin has a director of immense prowess and great humility too.
  • #
    Etienne certainly compares the 2008 vintage to 1993, citing the very similar vegetative cycles in both summers. And to reinforce that he gave us a 1993 Richebourg to taste at the end of our visit.Still needing time, obviously, this was still a majestic wine, with masses of fruit and development. The 2008s were the main event here and together with a mystery Russian and his PA, we tasted (the Russian drank) through the range. The overall impression was of suppleness and energy in the wines. They were all full of gas, but the wines here spend two winters in cask.
  • Frédéric Lafarge has established Domaine Lafarge-Vial in the charming, dramatic village of Fleurie. The wines are vinified back in Volnay, but Frédéric was keen to tell me the fruit here demands a different approach; he vinifies his Fleurie with 30% whole cluster, which brings a more expressive, aromatic style. /NT
  • #

    When Jacques Seysses bought the domaine that was to become the eponymous `du jac` in the sixties and then buying some top plots who would have thought that Dujac would become such an influential player in the region.

  • #

    Domaine Felettig has an origin story you hear time and again across Burgundy (and more broadly, across much of France and viticultural Europe). Grape cultivators gradually become landowners in their own right, and sent their grapes to the village co-op until someone (in this case, Henri Felettig) took the dramatic decision to begin estate bottling. Over time, family holdings increased. In 1993, the next generation took over, with Gilbert handling the winemaking and his sister Christine administering the domaine.

  • #
    What can one say about Francois that won`t be misinterpreted? Capricious, fey, self-deprecating, tiny, dedicated, giggly as hell, slightly anxious about his wines, says pfff more often than any other Frenchman I`ve ever met, crafter of brilliant Chambolle. I`m not sure he ever wanted to be a winemaker, but he`s a bloody good one. (CW 14/03/14)
  • #
    Anytime that a book or report on Burgundy arrives, I can imagine the conversation over the Lumpp breakfast table. `Nice review for your wines, dear.` `Did they say my wines are solid, workmanlike and ambitious Givrys, dear?` `Of course, dear, well done.` Frustrating though that must be, it is at least part of the truth. There is also perfume and depth and great pleasure to be had from these excellent value wines. In 2009 the Domaine was our first visit and got us off to a flying start. Silky tannins and vivid acidity underpinned the fresh and complex fruit.
  • Francois Raquillet is a typical modern Burgundian. He retains many strong links to the past but is constantly searching to improve his wines, either through better vineyard work or in the cellar. Blessed with a lot of old vines, he strives to keep yields fairly low, makes full use of a sorting table - which means throwing away a lot of fruit - and in the end the results are fruit-driven, pure wines that see a maximum of 30% new oak and are unobscured by it. Overall the style is robust but perfumed with well done tannins in the reds and dense, herby, citrussy whites.
  • #
    Ghislaine Barthod makes an unlikely superhero. As charming as her wines, she exhibits little of the inner steel she had to have to take over her estate on inheritance, and improve it and the wines. And improve they have. Barthod wines continue to climb the league table, not only in Chambolle, but in Burgundy as a whole. Yet the tiny barrel cellar and less than fifteen acres of land cannot hope to supply the demand for the ten different wines produced, including a singular white. And incidentally Pinot Noir`s amazing tendency to mutate means that some white fruit is in Fuees and Beaux Bruns.
  • #

    The defining estate in Nuits-St-Georges. One hundred years after Henri Gouges returned from the First World War and became a pioneer of domaine bottling and a champion of the region, Gouges are going strong. The stewardship of Henri’s great-grandsons Greg and Antoine is winning round a new generation of fans, and these two cousins have had a cracking fifteen years in charge.

  • Our biggest new discovery of November 2019 was in Gevrey. The tasting at Henri Magnien completely bowled us over; we found intense, expressive wines, that were beautifully textured and bountifully aromatic. We decided on the spot we had to have them. This is another domaine with a lot of history behind it - the Magniens go back to 1656, and the affable Charles Magnien, who took over a decade ago, represents no less than the twelfth generation here. Not only do they have some fantastic sites with old vines, they even have their very own clone of Pinot Noir.
  • Hubert Lamy continues to produce wines that are equal parts genius and bonkers. We refer to them as the Cotat of St-Aubin. Who else would plant as many as 30,000 vines per hectare, risking the wrath of the appellation authorities just to see if it makes better wine? It does, by the way!
  • #
  • #

    Thank goodness the Chauvenet estate isn`t just a few pocket handkerchief size bits of land scattered round the region, because this is another address where the yields are falling year on year at the moment. Despite this, Christophe still has wine to sell. A witty but reserved man with an appealing combination of confidence and humility, his wines, which in some respects pay homage to Henri Jayer, though less obtrusively oaked, continue in the ageworthy mould.

  • #
    The thirtieth of October 2008. A milestone in my wine education, because the day was bookended by visits to and tastings with Fourrier and Grivot. My Burgundy obsession is shamefully recent, but even I have verticals of Fourrier wines going back to 2001, three years after Jean-Marie, whose evil twin is Rafa Benitez, began making the great strategic decisions that have taken him close to the top of the league in Burgundy.
  • #
    Over the last twenty years, Benoit Droin has shown an ever more adroit hand, reaffirming Droin`s place in the region`s top tier. In his time in charge he has dialled back on the new oak his father introduced, switched all fermentations to indigenous yeast and, after extensive experimentation, moved to Diam closures for all cuvees - he believes these are a better guarantee of quality and longevity. With an impressive array of crus his wines constitute a fascinating flavour map of Chablis terroir. /NT
  • `Moi, j’aime les vins avec energie, fraicheur, vigueur.` The wines of Joseph Colin are tense and intense, complex and energetic - a little like the man himself. This is still a relatively new domaine, but you`d never know that from the quality of the wines. Since 2016 Joseph has cultivated his share of the Colin family vineyards, six hectares spread across Chassagne, Puligny and Saint Aubin. He resists what he sees as the classificatory straitjacket of biodynamic viticulture, but has nevertheless adopted many biodynamic practices.

  • #

    Maison, landowner, producer, negociant; Joseph Drouhin make a stunning set of wines from some of Burgundy’s finest terroirs, and apply the very best of modern practice in viticulture and vinification. Their vineyard-focused approach, foregrounding low yields, high density plantings, organics and biodynamics mean all their wines are marked by a strong sense of its individual terroir.

    The domaine is run according to strict biodynamic principles.

  • Bruno Lorenzon farms 9 hectares between Mercurey and Montagny, but when you taste his wines it`s easy to forget where you are - they have the breed and class of somewhere much more glamorous than their postcode! Montagny is most known for its white wines, and Bruno`s are outstanding. Mont Laurent is meticulously crafted, full of focus, drive and elegance, Choix du Roy combines generous yellow fruit with intensity, good structure and a chiselled, saline finish. A very welcome addition to our portfolio. (NT 16/02/21)
  • Jadot is a producer of two faces. On the one hand they are one of Burgundy`s largest and most prolific negociant producers, whose wines appear in supermarkets and high street chains in many countries. On the other, they own and farm plots and monopoles in some of the region`s most desirable real estate. Their iconic leader on the winemaking front is Jacques Lardiere, who - shockingly - is obsessed with terroir, rather than easy drinking fruit. His concerns are much taken up with the rock under the soil and making wines with as little intervention as possible.
  • #

    At Domaine Marc Colin, Damien and his sister Caroline are making some seriously good, high-energy wine. The domaine dates back to the 1970s, and was built from the ground up by Marc Colin and his wife Michele, from vineyards that had been in their families for generations. Two of Marc’s four children have since gone their own ways, taking their share of family vineyards; so Pierre-Yves left to start Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, and Joseph left to start Domaine Joseph Colin. Damien and his sister Caroline stayed in control of Marc Colin.

  • #
    Méo-Camuzet is an unrecognisable Domaine from what it was thirty years ago and Jean-Nicolas is evolving in harmony. In the early eighties the Méo family were more or less running the estate as absentee landlords. Jean-Nicolas said that at that time Vosne was a holiday home. They had some exceptional vineyards and some more than decent tenants though, especially one Henri Jayer. Changes to French laws meant essentially that the family had to start farming their own land or would have to sell it - not an appealing prospect.
  • #
    Michel Gros went straight from Beaune Viticultural High School in 1975 to work with his father Jean in the family wine business. He is the 6th generation of the Gros family to make wine since his Great, Great, Great Grandfather settled in Vosne-Romanee in 1830. At one stage the family owned 2 ha of Richebourg and 3 ha of Echezeaux, since diluted amongst descendents. After receiving his own parcel of 2 ha from his father in 1979, Michel continued to acquire various parcels in Burgundy while simultaneously looking after the family business.
  • #
    Auditioning to be a location in the last Harry Potter opus, the atmospheric, black mould-covered cellar with its low ceiling houses some of the best wines of the area. Lafarge is undoubtedly one of the finest Cote de Beaune producers. They craft pure and understated wines, real terroir-driven Burgundy, made as it always has been without any great fuss or marketing noises. Only 20% new oak is used on many of the wines as purity of fruit is vital to the operation.
  • At Michel Niellon, they work in a slightly richer style, making ripe and concentrated wines that still retain precision and elegance. The domaine has a massive following in the USA but we have managed to claw some back for the UK! These days, Niellon is managed by Michel Niellon`s son-in-law Michel Coutoux and his grandson Matthieu Bresson. Fermentations take place in stainless steel before the wines are transferred to barrique, 20-30% new, for malolactic fermentation and ageing. These are wines that develop well, into highly sought after wines.
  • #
    Jacqueson remains one of the very best domaines in the Chalonnaise, and has a huge domestic following; their wines adorn the list of many of France`s finest restaurants. Based in the village of Rully, the domaine is these days managed by third-generation sister and brother team Marie and Pierre. It`s no wonder the Jacquesons` wines are so good; their fruit come from wonderfully-sited vineyards which they only work by hand, using minimal treatments. Cellar work follows a low-intervention regime, with the judicious use of new oak.
  • #

Pages