Free Friday meet the winemaker tasting - Dönnhof's glorious Nahe wines

Friday, 18 July 2014 - 12:00pm to 6:30pm

 

Helmut DonnhoffIn the second of our series of 'meet the virtual winemaker' tastings, the lucky interviewee is Helmut Dönnhoff, whom we thank for his time. Arguably Germany's best, most affordable and accessible wine producer, he and now his son Cornelius have been at the forefront of what you might call the new Germany movement. He has embraced the Grosses Gewachs system for top dry wines made with ripe fruit while not ignoring the sweeter styles as well. In fact Helmut's secret is to work like fury in the vineyards and relax in the cellar.

2012 was an amazing year for dry Rieslings. Things didn't get off to the best start, with a very cold and extended winter leading to a chaotic flowering period producing small bunches of tiny berries. In late spring/early summer the weather was mixed but cool. Then came September and October, with sunny, warm days and dark, cool nights, which allowed the fruit to ripen slowly, retaining acidity. The dry, sunny conditions almost entirely prevented the onset of botrytis, so even the sweeter cuvees gained their concentration through dehydration.

The vineyards are extraordinary while the cellar functional. We moved straight from an exhilarating vineyard tour to the tasting room as if not to forget the scent of the terroir in the field before we got it in the glass. Come along to taste some of Germany's most stunning wines. /CW

Meet the winemaker: Helmut Dönnhof

1 If you could make wine anywhere, where would it be?

In the Nahe region- of course. I can not be moved from here. I am connected to my vinyards.

2 What pest causes you most trouble in the vineyard?

If wild boar take a closer look at our ripe grapes in our grand cru vinyards.

3 What impact have wine critics had on you (if any)?

It is always interesting to hear a second opinion about our wines, but they should not influence me to much in my traditional way of winemaking. 

4 What is the best thing about wines made in your country? And the worst?

The worst is not the quality- the biggest problem is our classification system- it is very difficult to understand. The best thing is our talent for outstanding Riesling for a reasonable price.

5 What causes you most sleepless nights?

frost in May

6 If you weren't a winemaker, what would you like to have been?

architect

7 Outside wine, what is your passion?

art and architecture

8 What was the best advice you ever received?

Do not take life too serious

9 Favourite wine/vintage from your winery?

1971 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese

10 Signature dish?

Everything my wife cooks.

11 Favourite restaurant locally? Worldwide?

Sorry,  I have so many friends around that own outstanding restaurants- it would be a sin just to name one.

Vintage Description Cs Sz Bt Sz Cs Bts Cs ib Cs inc Bt inc
2012 drink or keep Donnhoff Tonschiefer Dry Slate Riesling
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6x 75cl 0 0 £69.00 £98.87 £16.48 Buy
2011 drink or keep Donnhoff Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Dry
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6x 75cl 0 0 £96.00 £131.27 £21.88 Buy
2012 ready Donnhoff Kabinett Oberhauser Leistenberg
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6x 75cl 0 0 £69.00 £92.83 £15.47 Buy
2011 ready Donnhoff Spatlese Felsen Turmchen
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6x 75cl 0 0 £120.00 £157.09 £29.53 Buy