(one-quarter each clairette, grenache blanc, bourboulenc and picpoul, raised in stainless steel): Bright gold. An expressive bouquet evokes fresh citrus and orchard fruits, white flowers and minerals. Racy and precise on entry, then fleshier in the mid-palate, offering juicy orange and pear flavors braced by a hint of lemon zest. Finishes with very good grip and cut, the citrus note echoing. The malo is blocked here, Avril says,`because it is critical to preserve the wine`s freshness so that it can age gracefully.` He recommends drinking his white Chateauneuf either young, with shellfish, or with about a decade of bottle age, with richer foods like poultry or lobster. 93 points