Full, dark red colour. Blackberry, cedary cigar smoke, violets mix attractively together on the nose. Black raisin and date airs show along with fragrance – that floral touch important. There’s a good cool thread all along the palate, which carries good spine, runs really straight, has structure with stylish gras potential around it, leading into a smoky, lasting finish which shows pebbly tannins. There are salted moments and a good, complete run here, and this wine’s freshness is superior to most 2017s. The empty glass has an air of cherry stone. 15.3%. `It is a very profound year,` Vincent Avril. Down from 100,000 b to 60,000 b this year. Drink through 2046-50. 5*

Paul-Vincent Avril and I tasted from several foudres of the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape. Foudre #17 was Syrah-heavy, with plenty of blueberry and blackberry fruit tinged with licorice. Full-bodied and rich, it was also silky and long (93 - 95 points). Number 19 was 55% Grenache and 45% Mourvèdre, more floral