Perfumed and mineral from the first tilt, the 2021 Chardonnay Dark Label lifts from the glass with an array of crushed rocks, young peach and sweet herbs. It`s luxuriously soft upon entry yet quickly gains in tension as brisk acidity enlivens its tart orchard fruits and inner spice. This holds its power in reserve, finishing with a staining of primary concentration lifted by a trace of lemon oil. The 2021 will require cellaring to show its best, but it will be worth waiting for. 93 points