The golden color of the 2021 Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru signals richness. However, the wine is subtle on the nose and still clouded by promising reduction. The palate presents juicy pear, lemon-edged, with a lovely licorice bitterness. The acidity is smooth and balanced, but licorice keeps flashing up darkly, broodingly, speaking of the dark volcanic stone. The finish is very long and intriguing because this is such a taut, almost austere Pinot Gris, compelling and dramatic. Wait for this. (Bone-dry) 95 points