Nowhere to stay, nowhere to eat, only white wine. Those are the three reasons to avoid going to any village usually, but then the chalky hills of Chablis are home to specialist growers who between them make some of the best Chardonnay anywhere. So then, vaut le detour indeed. That soil really is different if you have seen much Kimmeridgian clay. Almost glistening white, especially in the winter on the best sites, kicking down the rows quickly reveals plentiful fossils. (CW 11/01/12)