'It's a safe bet that if winemakers are excited about a vintage, you should be too.' - Monica Larner, robertparker.com, Aug 2023
We've known for a while that 2019 is a great Barolo vintage. We were convinced after our own tastings in the region, but it's not just us: Decanter magazine scored the vintage five out of five, and Galloni called it 'stellar'. Now Monica Larner has published her report on robertparker.com, and we are delighted to see high scores for some of our favourite producers. 'Temperature shifts are always the secret of a great Barolo vintage', Larner notes, and points out the 2019 swings between hot days and cool nights. The hottest spells in summer were relieved by rain showers. A long growing season was followed by a late harvest. These are conditions which Nebbiolo loves: they lead to complexity and aromatic development. With structured wines set to age well, 2019 is a cellar vintage.
Larner notes that 'some of the best quality for your money is found in the growing field of village bottlings', before going on to cite Fratelli Alessandria's Barolo del Comune di Verduno. The Alessandrias have been on the scene since the 1830s, but have soared to prominence under the stewardship of fifth-generation Vittore Alessandria. They make polished, authentic Barolos from coveted crus both in their home village of Verduno, and further afield. They were the first producer to make a dedicated Barolo di Verduno. And at Bruna Grimaldi, brother and sister team Simone and Martina are bringing a fresh mindset to their family winery. They are based in Grinzane Cavour, but farm parcels across the region. They have adopted a mainly traditionalist approach in the winery (submerged cap fermentation, large botti) not because of any ideology, but because experimentation convinced them that was the way to go.
And (like Monica Larner) we are big fans of Serio e Battista Borgogno. Their winery occupies a commanding position on the ridge above the great Cannubi vineyard, where they have some choice plots in the vineyard's historical heart. With another young team in charge here (cousins Emanuela and Federica) they are not afraid to question everything they do. Among their many recent innovations, they have planted almond tree saplings in their vineyards; these encourage biodiversity, and in an era of rising temperatures, offer grapes a little shade. /NT
Offered subject to remaining unsold; Borgogno and Grimaldi available immediately, Alessandria for shipment Winter 2023
